Following my last post featuring Palermo’s Cheeky Chef Linda Sarris, we’re returning to Sicily. More specifically, to the enchanting Aeolian Islands, the string of seven volcanic islands off of Sicily’s coast.
We’re narrowing in on Salina, the second largest island of them all. Salina’s vibe is low-key chic, a quiet destination, yet offers lovely, hidden beaches, incredible restaurants, stylish boutiques, notable vineyards that produce delicious Zibibbo and Malvasia wines, and so much more.
On the south side of Salina is Rinella Beach, a crescent-shaped, volcanic sand beach surrounding a quiet harbor. Multiple red and white-striped umbrellas rented by beachgoers pepper the shore, creating a striking aesthetic against the charcoal-colored sand. A cool breeze carries the Italian chatter of playful children, while young and old sunbathe and swim in the calm waters. Whiling away a summer day here, one feels suspended in time. It could be 2024, it could be 1965, or any year in between. Picture a vintage Italian beach holiday.
Just a short climb up from this idyllic scene is the restaurant Pa.Pe.Ró.
But first— have you ever heard of sweet capers? I’ve always loved capers for the salty flavor they bring to fish plates, but had never heard of them served sweet. Yet this is Salina, home to bushes that are known to produce the best capers in the world! Capperi canditi stood out on the blackboard menu at the entrance of Pa.Pe.Ró.
Pa.Pe.Ró stands for the names of the three siblings who run this cozy eatery. We learned from sister Rosanna, that their renowned Ricotta Granita (granita being an ice dessert served throughout Sicily) is a secret recipe they created with their late father. The finishing touch to this unique dessert is capers— capers, the ingredient famously tied to their home island, but candied for sweetness. It’s a perfect complement and an unusual surprise for those lucky enough to taste it.
The Aeolian Islands of Italy are truly magical. I’ve only touched upon a small sample of the spell they cast to those who visit. They’re not easy to get to, but well worth the trip. For another taste of Salina’s beauty, I leave you with a reel of Santa Maria Salina, a town along the island’s main marina.
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